bouchon bakery.jpg  IMG20160130182207.jpg  

Paris-New York

The Paris-Brest is more than a century old, invented to commemorate the famous bicycle race. The dessert is made with pate a choux piped into a ring (the shape of a tire), baked, split, and filled with a praline pastry cream. I love classics, and Sebastien loves to put a twist on them. Here he combines a French creation with something very American-Peanut butter (making this a reflection of his journey). We think of peanut butter as commonplace here, but it was new to Sebastien. He adds Skippy natural peanut butter to the pastry cream filling and garnishes the dessert with whole and chopped salted peanuts rather than using the traditional praline butter cream and almonds. These are impressive individual desserts to serve at a dinner party.

巴黎布列斯特是個超過百年歷史,他的發明,是為了紀念自行車比賽*1,這款甜點是將泡芙麵團用擠花袋擠成輪胎狀,經過烘烤,側面對切成半,在擠上榛果醬與卡士達醬混和而成的內餡。我喜歡經典,但賽巴斯汀*2喜歡扭轉他們。在這裡,他結合了法國人的創造和非常美式的花生醬。在美國人眼裡花生醬是非常普通平常的,但是在賽巴斯汀的眼裡,卻是一件非常新奇的事物。他混合了美國知名品牌的花生醬(如圖)和卡士達醬,和整顆與切碎的炒過的帶鹽花生,取代了傳統的榛果卡士達內餡和杏仁片為裝飾。這款甜點很適合當晚宴甜點。

*補充1:此自行車比賽是由法國西邊的布列斯特到巴黎繞一圈的自行車賽事。

*補充2:賽巴斯汀是法國人,為湯瑪斯‧凱勒首席甜點師

sebastien rouxel.jpg  

You will need a 3 1/2-inch oval cutter, a spray bottle, a pastry bag with an Ateco #867 French star tip, and a pastry bag with an Ateco #864French star tip.

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 190.

你會需要一個3.5英吋的圓形切模,一個噴霧器,一個擠花袋和一個Ateco花嘴編號867,和另一個擠花袋和一個Ateco花嘴編號864(可用一般菊型花嘴取代)

烤盤放在烤箱中,上面三分之二的位子,預熱溫度為190

 

Recipe 食譜:

Pate a choux for Eclairs 閃電泡芙麵糊

 

175 g

All-purpose flour

中筋麵粉

33 g

Granulated sugar

細砂糖

240 g

Water

120 g

Unsalted butter, at room temperature

室溫無鹽奶油

2.5 g

Kosher salt

猶太鹽(3)

250 g

Eggs

120 g

Salted peanuts(without skin), coarsely chopped

碎炒過花生

 

 

 

*補充(3):猶太鹽,又稱淨化鹽。無添加物,是許多專業廚師愛用鹽喔!

Combine the water, butter, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan, place over medium heat, and stir as the butter melts. (Starting at too high a temperature will evaporate some of the water before the butter has melted.) Once the butter has melted, increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a simmer, then remove the pan from the heat and, with a stiff heatproof or wooden spoon, stir in all of the flour. Continue to stir for about 2 minutes, or until the mixture has a paste-like consistency, then place over medium heat and stir rapidly for 1 to 2 minutes, until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pan and the bottom of the pan is clean; the dough should be glossy and smooth but not dry.

,奶油,鹽放入中型煮鍋中,開中火並攪拌至奶油融化。若一開始開大火,那食譜中的水會在奶油融化前就開始蒸發了。當奶油融化,提高加熱溫度直到沸騰,移開煮鍋,加入粉類用木匙攪拌兩分鐘直到麵糊成稠狀,然後放回加熱區,以中火快速攪拌1~2分鐘,直到將麵團攪拌至中央時,鍋邊及底部是乾淨的,麵團應呈現平整光滑但不至於太乾。

 

Immediately transfer the dough to the mixer bowl and mix on low for about 30 seconds to release some of the moisture. Slowly begin adding the eggs, about 50 g at a time, beating until each addition is completely absorbed before adding the next one. Continue adding the eggs, reserving 25 g, until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl when pulled with the paddle but then grabs back on again.

馬上將麵團轉移至攪拌鋼,以低速攪拌30秒使其釋放一些水分。開始慢慢加入雞蛋,每次約50g的分量,要確保前一次的蛋液充分混入麵糰後才再可加入剩下的雞蛋。保留25g蛋液,攪拌至麵團被槳狀攪拌器攪打時,邊邊的麵團會被攪擠到中間但又會回復成麵糰階段。

 

Increase the speed to medium and mix for 15 seconds to be sure all of the eggs are incorporated. Stop the mixer. When the paddle is lifted, the dough should form a bird’s beak-it should hold it’s shape and turn down over itself but not break off. If the dough is too stiff, add the reserved egg.

轉換攪拌機的轉速到中速15,確保所有的蛋液都充分均勻吸收到麵糊裡後,停止攪拌機,取槳狀攪拌器時,麵糊應該是呈現倒三角,似流非流狀態,麵糊太硬,可加入剩餘的蛋液繼續調整。

 

為保障國際著作權,本文章僅作交流推廣之用,請勿擅自拷貝、複製、列印等,禁止任何商業用途,歡迎連同原網址轉發,若喜歡本文請購買Bouchon Bakery (Thomas Keller)

 

*Basic Butter cream 基本奶油餡

 

75 g

Egg whites

蛋白

150g

Granulated sugar 1

細砂糖1

33 g

Granulated sugar 2

細砂糖2

42 g

Water

227 g

Unsalted butter, cut into small pieces at room temperature

室溫無鹽奶油,切小塊

 

 

 

 

Place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.Place the 150g sugar in a small saucepan, add the water, and stir to moisten the sugar. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, and simmer until the syrup reaches 100℃.
蛋白放入攪拌鋼並搭配球狀攪拌器備用。將150g細砂糖和水放入小煮鍋中,混和均勻後以中高溫加熱,直到100℃。

 

Letting the syrup continue to cook, turn the mixer to medium speed, gradually pour in the remaining 33g sugar into the whites and whip until the whites are beginning to form very loose peaks. If the whites are ready before the syrup reaches 120℃, turn the mixer to the lowest setting just to keep them moving.
繼續加溫,同時啟動攪拌機為中速,並慢慢加入33g細砂糖,打發蛋白霜到濕性發泡階段,若糖漿在這時還未到達120℃,請轉低速保持運轉即可。

 

When the syrup reaches 120℃, remove the pan from the heat. Turn the mixer to medium-low speed and slowly add the syrup to the whites, pouring it between the side of the bowl and the whisk. Increase the speed to medium-high and whisk for 15 minutes, or until the bottom of the bowl is t room temperature and the whites hold stiff peaks.(If the mixture is warm, it will melt the butter.)
當糖漿到達120℃,將攪拌機轉至中低速,在攪拌鋼和攪拌器之間,慢慢倒入糖漿,倒完後,提高為中高速打15分鐘至硬挺狀態或打至攪拌鋼底部降溫為室溫(若蛋白霜溫度太高,當我們後面加入奶油時,奶油會融化)。

 

Reduce the speed to medium and add the butter, a few pieces at a time. If at any point the mixture looks broken, increase the speed and beat to re-emulsify it, then reduce the speed and continue adding the butter. Check the consistency; if he butter cream is too loose to hold its shape, it should be refrigerated for up to a few hours to harden, then beaten again to return it to the proper consistency.
轉為中速分批慢慢加入小塊奶油,若在途中有出現任何結粒,先調高轉速使其拌勻在蛋白霜後再轉為原速繼續操作,若發現奶油霜太軟了,可先冷藏降溫幾個小時候再繼續打發至鬆軟狀。

 

The butter cream can be stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 1 month; defrost frozen butter cream in the refrigerator overnight before using. Thirty minutes before using the butter cream, place it in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and allow to soften. Then mix on low speed to return the butter cream to the proper consistency for piping or spreading.
奶油霜可保存在密封盒裡冷藏五天,冷凍一個月。使用前一晚可先放置冷藏退冰冷凍奶油霜,再使用三十分鐘前,再從冷藏移至攪拌鋼退冰,才開始低速攪打至操作狀態。


*為保障國際著作權,本文章僅作交流推廣之用,請勿擅自拷貝、複製、列印等,禁止任何商業用途,歡迎連同原網址轉發,若喜歡本文請購買Bouchon Bakery (Thomas Keller)

 

*Diplomat Cream卡士達+打發鮮奶油餡

 

2g

Silver leaf gelatin

銀級吉利丁片

610g

***Pastry cream

卡士達餡

200g

Whipped cream

打發鮮奶油

 

Place the gelatin in a bowl of ice water to soften.Transfer one-third of the pastry cream to a medium microwave-safe bowl or a small saucepan. Remove the gelatin form the water, squeezing out excess water, and add to the bowl or pan. Heat, gently stirring, to loosen the pastry cream and dissolve the gelatin.

還原吉利丁片於冰水中,取三分之一的卡士達餡到中型可微波的碗或小的煮鍋中,加入已還原擠乾之吉利丁片,溫和的加熱卡士達餡直到吉利丁融化並拌勻。

 

Meanwhile, transfer the remaining pastry cream to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or to a medium bowl and mix or stir until smooth.
另一方面,將剩下的卡士達餡轉移至中型鋼盆或有槳狀的攪拌機,攪拌至滑順狀態。

 

Strain the warm pastry cream through a fine-mesh strainer into the bowl with the rest of the pastry cream and mix or stir until smooth. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and fold in the whipped cream one-third at a time. Press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to prevent a skin from forming and refrigerate until firm, at least 4 hours. (The cream can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.) When ready to use the cream, transfer to a bowl and stir gently until it has a creamy consistency.

過篩第一步驟的卡士達餡到第二步驟中的卡士達餡,攪拌至滑順,並分三次拌入打發鮮奶油。將保鮮膜直接批覆在表面,冷藏四小時。Diploma cream可冷藏存放四天。四小時後,再取出攪拌滑順即可使用。

 

*Pastry cream 卡士達餡

 

132g

Egg yolks

蛋黃

1/2

Vanilla bean

香草莢

110g

Granulated sugar

細砂糖

83g

Custard powder

卡士達粉

550g

Whole milk

全脂牛奶

27g

Unsalted butter at room temperature

無鹽奶油

 

Set up an ice bath. Place a medium bowl in the ice water and set a fine-mesh strainer over the bowl. Put the yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the yolks, and mix on medium-low speed for about 30 seconds. Reduce the speed to low and slowly pour in the sugar, then whisk on medium speed until lighter in color, about 1 1/2 minutes. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, then whisk on medium-high speed for about 3 minutes, until the mixture is pale yellow and thick. When the whisk is lifted, the mixture should form a slowly dissolving ribbon.

先準備一組中型鋼盆隔冰水降溫組,在上方鋼盆上放置過篩備用。蛋黃放入攪拌鋼搭配球狀攪拌器,刮出香草莢的香草籽加入並用中低速攪打30秒。降低轉速並慢慢加入細砂糖並攪打顏色變稍淡,大約1.5分鐘。刮鋼後轉中高速攪打3分鐘,直到顏色變為淡黃色以及濃稠狀。當你拿起球狀攪拌器的時候,質地應該呈現為緩慢流下的緞帶狀。

 

Reduce the speed to low, add the custard powder, and mix for 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. With the mixer running on the lowest speed, slowly pour in the milk. Scrape the bowl again and mix on low speed for another minute, or until combined.
降為慢速,加入卡士達粉並混和30秒,刮鋼後,持續以低速運轉慢慢加入牛奶。再次刮鋼,再以低速攪拌至完全混和。

 

Pour the mixture into a large saucepan, set over medium heat, and stir gently until it begins to thicken. Switch to a whisk and whisk as the cream comes to a simmer, rotating the whisk around the bottom to keep the cream from scorching. Once you see bubbles breaking the surface, cook for about 5 minutes longer, whisking constantly, until the pastry cream has thickened.
將剛剛上述混和物轉移至大煮鍋,中火加溫並溫和的攪拌直到質地變濃稠。換成打蛋器並攪拌至沸騰,鍋邊和底部都要攪拌到,直到你看到卡士達醬開始出現大泡泡時,繼續不停地攪拌五分鐘直到卡士達醬變濃稠厚重。

 

Pour the pastry cream through the strainer, pressing gently on it to push the thickened cream through. Whisk for about 1 minute to cool slightly, then whisk in the butter in 2 additions. Pour into a covered container and press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. The cream can be refrigerated for up to 4 days. When ready to use the cream, transfer to a bowl and stir gently until it has a creamy consistency.
溫和輕柔的過篩卡士達醬後,攪拌一分鐘使其溫度稍微降低再加入奶油拌勻。將卡士達儲存於密封的保鮮盒並用保鮮膜服貼冷藏至少一小時到四天。當要使用時,移到鋼盆中溫和攪拌直到回覆濃稠滑順狀態。



*為保障國際著作權,本文章僅作交流推廣之用,請勿擅自拷貝、複製、列印等,禁止任何商業用途,歡迎連同原網址轉發,若喜歡本文請購買Bouchon Bakery (Thomas Keller)

 

*Filling 填餡

 

125 g

*Basic Butter cream

基本奶油餡

125 g

Creamy peanut butter

花生醬 

0.4 g

Kosher salt

猶太鹽*1

500 g

**Diplomat cream (page 374)

卡士達+打發鮮奶油餡

120 g

Salted peanuts(without skin)

乾炒過的加鹽花生

 

Powdered sugar for dusting

裝飾用防潮糖粉

 

 

Combine the butter cream, peanut butter, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix until smooth. Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the diplomat cream.
攪拌鋼結合基本奶油餡,花生醬,鹽攪拌至滑順,再拌入卡士達+打發鮮奶油餡

skippy peanut butter.jpg  

To make a template:The templates for the pâte à choux should be visible through the lighter part of a Silpat. Using a fine-tip marker and the oval cutter as a guide, draw 6 oval about 2 inches apart on a large piece of parchment paper. Place the parchment on a sheet pan and position the Silpat over it.

自製模板:取一張烤盤紙用細奇異筆和圓切模描出62英寸的圓形,再鋪上矽膠墊就成了自製模板了。

 

To Pipe and bake the pâte à choux : Fill a small bowl and spray bottle with water. Fill the pastry bag with the #867 star tip with the pâte à choux. Pipe the pâte à choux around the oval templates, overlapping the ends of each one to make a solid oval. Carefully slide out the template and repeat with a second sheet pan and Silpat.

Wet your finger and press down the overlap to smooth it Sprinkle 10g chopped peanuts on top of each oval, pressing them lightly into the batter. Spray the ovals lightly with water.

擠泡芙麵團和烘烤:備好噴霧水瓶和一小碗水。用編號867花嘴擠出兩盤圓型泡芙,手指沾溼輕壓麵糊,撒在每個擠好的泡芙上10g切碎的花生,並輕壓使其沾黏在麵團上,最後用噴霧噴灑。

 

Place the sheet pans in the oven, immediately lower the oven temperature to 190, and bake for 40 minutes, or until the pastry is beginning to brown. Lower the temperature to 160 and bake for 5 minutes more, or until golden brown. Lower the temperature to 150 and bake for about 10 minutes longer, until the puffs are light and hollow. If you break one open, the center should be completely cooked. Set on a cooling rack and cool completely before filling.

放入烤箱19040分鐘,或開始轉為棕色。降低溫度到1605分鐘,或直到金黃色。在降低溫到15010分鐘,直到麵團輕盈中空。如果你拿起折斷一個做測試,中間是應該要完全烤熟,確定之後就可以轉移網架,填餡前必須要完全降溫。

 

To fill the pastries: Using a serrated knife, cut off the tip third of each oval. Set the tops aside.

Fill the pastry bag with the #864 star tip with the peanut butter cream. Pipe the cream in a spiral rosette pattern toward the outer edge of each oval, then make a second spiral around the inside edge. Arrange 10g of the whole peanuts between the spirals in each oval. Dust the tops with powdered sugar and place over the filling. Set the assembled pastries on a serving platter.

The pastries are best eaten as soon as they are completed, but they can be refrigerated for up to 1 hour.

填餡:用鋸齒刀,側切三分之一頂部放在一側備用。用編號864花嘴擠花填餡,先擠螺旋蓮狀外圍一圈,在擠內圈,最後在每個圈圈之間放10g碎花生,再放上最頂層泡芙皮,上面撒上裝飾糖粉,並放在服務盤。

甜點在做完後是最適合的品嘗時間,當然也可以放在冷藏櫃中一個小時。

 

文章來源:Bouchon Bakery 2012  p.182

 

譯者的話

thomas keller.jpg  

相信廚藝界的朋友們都知曉美國傳奇名廚Chef Thomas Keller 湯瑪斯‧凱勒,他在舊金山所開的The French Laundry榮耀登上米其林三星寶座,也榮獲十多次的傑出餐廳。然而這次介紹的是由他的團隊首席甜點師Chef Sebastien Rouxel 賽巴斯汀盧賽爾,創新的甜點,結合法國傳統的巴黎布列斯和美國平民生活中不可或缺的花生奶油醬作為結合。在書中,每道手續都講解的非常仔細,與大家分享!

譯者介紹

Sara Chang

IMG_0426.JPG  

知道有很多同好一起為台灣甜點業努力,參予自己小小心力,繼續努力做中學,互相分享知識,互相增長。

雖然起步比別人晚,一路上受身旁老師、長輩們結緣幫忙,越學越覺得有好多事情都學不完。很享受把自己的夢想實現成理想的酸甜苦辣。

目前在新加坡法式甜點巧克力專賣店工作近兩年。

 

 

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