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Pâtes de Fruits 水果軟糖

 

 

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Black Currant Pâtes de Fruits 黑醋栗水果軟糖

72 g

Granulated sugar

細砂糖

650 g

Granulated sugar

細砂糖

14 g

Apple pectin

蘋果果膠

120 g

Glucose

葡萄糖

500 g

Black currant puree

黑醋栗果泥

225 g

Fresh granny smith apple juice

新鮮澳洲青蘋果汁*

10 g

Tartaric acid or cream of tartar

酒石酸或塔塔粉

200 g

Granulated sugar for coating

裹外層用細砂糖

 

White Peach Pâtes de Fruits 白桃水果軟糖

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62 g

Granulated sugar

細砂糖

550 g

Granulated sugar

細砂糖

12 g

Apple pectin

蘋果果膠

120 g

Glucose

葡萄糖

500 g

White peach puree

白桃果泥

125 g

Fresh granny smith apple juice

新鮮澳洲青蘋果汁

15 g

Tartaric acid or cream of tartar

酒石酸或塔塔粉

200 g

Granulated sugar for coating

裹外層用細砂糖

 

 

I love these fruit jellies so much I used to stay up to work with our pastry chef into the early morning hours after service at The French Laundry, when the kitchen was cool, quiet, and empty, so we could offer them on our mignardises tray.

 

Tartaric acid is similar in texture to granulated sugar, while cream of tartar is powdery; either will provide the necessary acid to help set the pectin and add some acidic balance. White peaches have less acidity than black currants, so we use more tartaric acid and less pectin in that recipe.

 

For variety, other berry purees can be substituted for the black currant.

 

我習慣和我們的甜點師傅在The French Laundry熬夜工作到凌晨後,當廚房是涼爽、安靜、空寂的時候,來一些水果軟糖,我超級喜歡這些水果軟糖,所以我們總是提供他們我們的精緻小點盤上。

 

酒石酸的質地與砂糖相似,而塔塔粉則是粉狀,主要是提供必要的酸來幫助穩定果膠,並添加一些酸性的平衡。白桃比黑醋栗的酸度少,所以我們使用更多的酒石酸和較少的果膠在配方中。

 

對於品種,其他漿果果泥可以取代的黑醋栗。 

 

譯者補充:在釀酒的過程中,當葡萄汁發酵成為葡萄酒時,隨著酒精含量的增加酒石酸鹽溶解度下降,酒石酸或其鹽類逐漸沈澱或結晶出來形成,堆積在發酵槽或貯酒桶裡形成堅硬的固體,即所謂「酒石(tartar)」;或稱做葡萄酒中的「酒鑽石wine diamonds」,這也是酒石酸名稱的來源。

 

 You will need four 24-by-1/2-inch-square confectionery rulers or a 9-by-13-inch baking pan and a Thermapen or other candy thermometer.

 

你將會需要四個 24*24 1/2吋正方鐵條*,或9*13吋的有邊烤盤,和煮糖溫度計。

 

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做法:

Combine the 72 g sugar and pectin in a small bowl. Place the remaining 650 g in another bowl. It’s difficult to transfer glucose from one container to the other because it is so sticky; you often lose some in the process. So weigh(or measure) the glucose directly over the bowl of sugar and pour it in, avoiding the edges of the bowl. Combining it with the sugar this way allows you to pour it cleanly when you transfer it to the saucepan.

 

A料:混和72g細砂糖和蘋果果膠在一個小碗裡備用。

 

B料:將650g的細砂糖放入另一個碗。將葡萄糖從一個碗轉移到另一個碗的時候是非常困難的,因為他非常的黏;你常常會因此而損耗一些。所以可以直接秤在剛剛秤好的650g糖中(避免沾到邊緣),糖與葡萄糖結合後,你可以很乾淨的轉移他們到煮鍋當中。

 

If using confectionery rulers, line the work surface with a piece of parchment or aluminum foil larger than a Silpat. Place a Silpat over the center. (The overhang of parchment will help keep the work surface clean.) Position the rulers so they form a 9 1/2-by-12-inch rectangle. Tape the ends of the rulers to the work surface to prevent them from shifting. If using a baking pan, line the pan with a double layer of plastic wrap.

 

如果你是使用軟糖用鐵條,現在工作臺上鋪上烤盤紙或者鋁箔紙(尺寸要大過矽膠墊),放矽膠墊在中央,這樣可以保持工作檯面的乾淨。放上軟糖用鐵條呈現矩形,固定住他們,以免滑動。如果你是使用烤盤,鋪上兩層保鮮膜備用。

 

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Mix the puree, sugar-pectin mixture, and apple juice in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring with a heatproof spatula and skimming off any impurities that rise to the surface. Stir in the sugar and glucose and continue to boil, stirring and scraping the sides and bottom often and reducing the heat as necessary to prevent scorching, until the temperature reaches 107 (see Notes to Professionals.) To check the consistency, drop a small amount of the mixture onto a cold plate. It should firm quickly, not spread; lift easily from the plate; and not feel sticky to the touch.

 

混和果泥、A料,和蘋果汁在大的煮鍋當中,用中大火煮滾,用耐高溫的攪拌匙攪拌,並移除表面浮出的雜質。加入B料,直到煮滾。持續攪拌底部和刮鍋邊,稍微降溫持續煮避免燒焦,煮到107(注意後面叮嚀事項)。低一小滴軟糖液到一個冷的盤子去確認濃度。他應該是迅速凝固不會擴散,而且可以輕易的從盤子裏面拿起,不會感到黏手的觸感。

 

Remove from the heat, stir in the tartaric acid or cream of tartar, and quickly pour the mixture between the rulers or into the prepared pan in an even layer. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes to firm completely.

 

關火,加入塔塔粉或酒石酸。並快速地倒入模型中。使其凝固在室溫當中半個小時至完全凝固。

 

為保障國際著作權,本文章僅作交流推廣之用,請勿擅自拷貝、複製、列印等,禁止任何商業用途,歡迎連同原網址轉發,若喜歡本文請購買Bouchon Bakery (Thomas Keller)

Remove the rulers or lift the plastic wrap to remove the candy from the pan. Once the Pâte de fruit is cut and coated in sugar, it is best eaten within 2 hours, but at this point the full sheet of candy can be wrapped in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 2 weeks or frozen for up to 1 month.

 

移除鐵條或移動保鮮膜使軟糖脫離烤盤模。一旦水果軟糖切了並裹上細砂糖後,最佳品嘗時間是兩個小時內,若沒有裹上糖,可以用保鮮膜封住,並存放在室溫兩個禮拜,或冷凍一個月。

 

To cut the pâte de fruit: Place 150 g of the coating sugar on a sheet pan, and shake the pan to distribute it evenly. Place the sheet of candy on the sugar, then flip it over to coat the second side with sugar. (This initial coating of sugar makes it easier to cut the candy into squares.) Using a long slicing knife, trim any uneven edges. If at any point the candy sticks to the knife, rinse the knife under hot water, dry, and continue to cut. Cut into 1-inch-wide strips, then cut crosswise into 1-inch squares(see note to Professionals.)

 

如何切水果軟糖:先放150g的細砂糖在有邊烤盤上,晃動烤盤使糖分布均勻。放上軟糖片,將兩面都均勻沾上細砂糖。(這可以使得更容易把軟糖片切成小正方個體。) 使用西點長刀,把四邊不齊的地方修齊,如果軟糖沾黏在刀子上,可將刀子放在熱水桶裡等一下,擦乾後就可以繼續切。切成一英吋的小正方塊。

 

Place the remaining 50 g sugar in a small bowl. Dip all sides of the pâte de fruit squares in the sugar to coat them evenly. If they will be held for longer than 2 hours, store them in a covered container at room temperature for up to 5 days. If the sugar dissolves, toss them in additional sugar just before serving.

 

剩下50g的細砂糖在小碗裡,把剛剛切好的小正方塊的四邊也均勻沾上細砂糖。如果他們無法在兩小時內食用完畢,請用密封保鮮盒保存,可存放五天。如果外層糖融化了,僅僅在服務前才沾上糖即可。

 

 

 

Notes to Professionals: 

We prefer Boiron and Perfect Puree fruit purees, but if they are unavailable, choose another puree with a 10 percent sugar content, like Ravi Fruit or Cap Fruit. Using purees with the same percentage of sugar gives consistency from batch to batch. Fresh fruit purees can be used, but we would suggest making a small batch first to determine the amounts of pectin, citric acid, and sugar needed.

 

小提醒:

我們偏好法國保虹冷凍果泥和品質較好的水果果泥,但如果他們不太可能取得,可以選擇其他品牌的果泥含有10%的糖份,像是法國樂比冷凍果泥或法國凱覆冷凍果泥。使用相同糖度比例成分的果泥可以保有製作穩定度。新鮮果泥當然也可以使用,但我們建議可以先試做小份量的去調整果膠、酒石酸和糖的比例。

 

Particularly with fresh fruit, as the fruit mixture cooks impurities rise, and they should be skimmed off.

 

When working with fruit purees, we like to use a refractometer, a tool used in winemaking to measure the amount of sugar, or Brix, in the fruit. For this recipe, it should register 78° Brix. We use a guitar cutter for quick, uniform shapes.

 

尤其是採用新鮮水果果泥會有較多的雜質浮出,他們應該被細篩網撈掉除去。

當我們使用果泥,我們喜歡使用測糖計,他是一種釀酒時所需要的工具來測量水果糖度。在這個配方中糖度應該為78度。我們使用巧克力切割器時期更有效率及大小一致性。

 

譯者的話:

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相信廚藝界的朋友們都知曉美國傳奇名廚Chef Thomas Keller 湯瑪斯‧凱勒,他在舊金山所開的The French Laundry榮耀登上米其林三星寶座,也榮獲十多次的傑出餐廳。這次介紹他最愛在工作到凌晨後所享受的法式軟糖,每道手續都講解的非常仔細,與大家分享!

 

譯者介紹:

Sara Chang

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知道有很多同好一起為台灣甜點業努力,參予自己小小心力,繼續努力做中學,互相分享知識,互相增長。

雖然起步比別人晚,一路上受身旁老師、長輩們結緣幫忙,越學越覺得有好多事情都學不完。很享受把自己的夢想實現成理想的酸甜苦辣。

目前在新加坡法式甜點巧克力專賣店工作近兩年。

 

 

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